Kym Barrett & Catherine Martin – costume design legends ❤️‍🔥

This may not come as a surprise, but 99% of my judgment on films is formulated by how good the costume design is. A persons outfit says so much about their character, their background, their status and their intentions, it’s a huge box to tick in terms of how the character is portrayed throughout the film. Two women who do this exceptionally well (and who I idolise a lot) are Kym Barrett and Catherine Martin.

The duo worked together on the set of Romeo & Juliet, which is where my love for the two began. The two reimagined an ethereal Shakespeare classic and served it to a 90’s grunge youth. Style wise those two categories should not come together, yet Barrett and Martin understood the assignment and created costumes that would still be idolised two decades later.

Kym Barrett at the Shangi-Chi premiere
Catherine Martin with husband Baz Luhrmann at the 2019 Met Gala

They both went onto work on some of the best films of the last 20 years, so I thought I’d explore some of their most iconic ones, which also happen to be some of my personal favourites.

Kym Barrett

It’s apparent that Kym was the influence in the more edgier pieces worn in Romeo and Juliet. Heavily inspired by 90’s Prada, who at the time were just starting to make a name for themselves in ready-to -wear, Barrett made the smart decision to dress all the youthful boys in the infamous Hawaiian shirts and boxy suits. This styling choice was great at emphasising the rebellious attitude that the Capulet boys in particular had against the formality of the older generation.

After Romeo and Juliet, Kym worked on many big names in film, especially within the action genre such as The Matrix and Marvel’s Shang-Chi. Another reason that I’m a huge fan of Kym is that she was the costume designer on The Amazing Spider-man, one of my all time favourite films. Her styling of Peter in t-shirts layered over long sleeves and hoodies under his everyday jacket were so relevant to the time what teenage girls on tumblr would’ve idolised in nerdy boys. This idolisation was almost too good for the humble Peter, which could be interpreted as a reflection of how society within the film wouldn’t have seen Peter as cool enough to be a superhero.

Catherine Martin

Whereas it seems Kym Barrett favours working on brash, edgy designs, Catherine Martin is more for the romantic side of things. Following her work on Romeo and Juliet, she has worked with husband Baz luhrmann on all of his most notorious films.

For Moulin Rouge she took on Marilyn Monroe silhouettes and made them even more femme fatale in colour and cut, which really helped in telling Satine’s story when her voice was muted amongst the men around her. For Daisy in The Great Gatsby, Catherine used many Miu Miu pieces in the test scenes, which led to Miuccia designing some pieces especially for Daisy’s character. The heavy involvement of Miu Miu in Daisy’s wardrobe really emphasises how Daisy would’ve been seen as quite the It girl of her time.

I can’t express just how excited I am to see Catherine work her magic on Baz Luhrmann’s new Elvis Biopic. I myself am a huge Elvis Presley fan, and as his style plays a huge part in his iconic persona, it’ll be fun to see how Catherine plays into the eccentricity between Luhrmann and Presley. I already know that I’ll be doing a full review of the costumes when this film comes out, so stay tuned for that in a few months.

In summary, these two women have had incredible careers in costume design, and there’s absolutely no stopping them in continuing to create iconic costumes in films to come.

Tribute to the pearl bag, 2018-2022 🤍

This might sound a bit dramatic, but it comes with a great deal of sadness to announce the retirement of my beloved Skinnydip pearl bag, which I have worn and loved dearly for the past few years. Here lies a few words I’ve dedicated to my trusty bag.

I bought the bag whilst on a shopping trip in Manchester back in 2018, during a weekend away with my then boyfriend. I’d been obsessed with the Shrimps Antonia Bag, but as a skint college student I’d been waiting around for a high street shop to make a more affordable alternative that I could get my hands on.

Then it happened.

I remember spotting this exact bag in the Skinnydip shop in the Trafford Centre, hesitant to leave without it, but contemplating if I could afford the thirty pounds or if I should’ve put it towards something more practical. It’s funny how our thoughts on what’s affordable or not is completely relative to our evolving expenses as we get older.

Of course I caved and bought it, I knew it would be a future favourite. I was completely right. It’s been my most worn bag ever, it’s seen weekends away, nights out, holidays, and just the everyday strolls too. My friends have said it’s the bag they associate with me, and if I’m ever meeting them somewhere they know where I’ll be sat just based on the bag on the table.

Yet alas, as the bag has been loved it has also faced a lot of wear and tear. I always keep hold of my clothes until they physically can’t be worn anymore, which in this case, the bag strap is only a few wears away from total separation. I expected that the high street quality wouldn’t be too generous in prolonging it’s lifeline, but I think I’ve managed to make the most of it.

So as time has gone on and I’ve gone up a few levels in my working life, I thought it might be time to contemplate investing in the real thing. Usually I only buy designer bags under a £200 limit (usually when I can find a further discount on them) but as the Antonia Bag is the brand staple, I don’t think it’ll be getting much more of a discount anytime soon. Not that I’m going to walk into Selfridges next week and buy it with some petty cash, but it’s something I can think about saving up for in the coming months.

However, I do try to contemplate the cost per wear of an item, which is how I justify buying designer items in the first place. As time goes on and the item gets worn more and more, the cost per wear gets smaller and smaller, making it a good investment long term. For example, I have a Marc Jacobs bag that I got for around £130, which I have worn around 20 times in the past two years, making it around £6.50 everytime I’ve worn it so far. I’d plan to do exactly the same with this bag too.

I already own the Prairie Bag from Shrimps, which is the same shape as the Antonia, and the quality and overall sturdiness of that bag makes me even more confident in the amount of wear that I’d get out of a white version. I think it’s a good transition to invest in a higher quality version of an item you already know you love and wear, once it’s been worn out.

Although the pearly bag hasn’t had an official retirement just yet, I just thought it would be fun to dedicate a whole blog post to a much loved item in my wardrobe as it’s coming to its final days. I think she will just be reserved for the next three most special of special occasions, but her days of parading around town during the day are long gone. It’s sad to see her gradually go, but at least she was well loved.

Jacquemus pink 🌺

It’s a colour that’s been a firm favourite for the past few years running, from the whole neon colours trend of 2019, to a more muted baby pink since then. Yet even still, there’s a particular shade of pink that has stuck around no matter the season or trend, and I like to refer to it as ‘Jacquemus Pink’.

For the Spring/Summer 2020 collection debut, Simon Porte showcased what would be some of his most iconic designs in a lavender field, trailed along a hot pink runway. looking at this pre-pandemic show in hindsight, it seems as though the choices of a solid pink carpet against fields of lavender and a bright blue sky were all combined in hopes of creating some escapism (which even Simon himself wouldn’t realise it’s impact until the following year).

The pink carpet would be a guide to curious fashion lovers as to what the Jacquemus brand would lean towards in terms of establishing its key colour palette. This pink featured on bags and shoes, but most notably, the iconic pink oversized blazer. It’s an exquisite piece of tailoring and the boxy masculine silhouette is perfectly complimented by its rosy tone. Everyone went crazy for it, including myself, and it’s still a piece I’d love to have one day!

Simon dedicated a whole collection to pink, bringing out signature styles in the brands new found colour, as well as some slightly kitschy additions like a pair of flip flops shaped like a heart.

This shade of pink has been all over high fashion Twitter as well as fashion Tik-tok following the apps emergence. The versatility of its saturation makes it perfect for bright styles or neutral tones, which pretty much caters for the majority of fashion fans.

It can be something super feminine or just an everyday bright shade, depending on what vibe you are going for. the lack of restraints in terms of colour palette grouping, along the growth in popularity for this exact shade, means that it’s almost skipped the typical trendiness of certain colours and found itself a new home in the everyday classics corner.

Of course as all trends come and go, the fashion industry food chain must eat. Other smaller high fashion brands began to tune into this popular shade, and overtime it’s made its way into the high street. This process does give a person with an everyday income the ability to get involved with a trend they might be interested in, and what better trend to invest in than hot pink!

Two years ago I bought myself a hot pink boxy oversized blazer from the brand Collusion, and honestly it’s one of the best high street pieces i’ve ever bought! The cut of it is almost identical to the original from Jacquemus, and it makes any simple outfit feel that little bit extra fancy. In the winter months I like to wear it over a trusty black turtleneck, and when the weather gets a bit warmer I love wearing it over a plain black bralette for a casual yet still put together outfit.

After spending the past two years absolutely head over heels for this colour, I decided to buy myself the pink ‘Le Bandeau Valensole’ bralette in the Farfetch sale, which I think will be a great summer staple. I’m excited to look at photographs of this time in years to come, all in a hue of fuchsia pink.

SHUSHU/TONG – everything you need to know 🎀

They keep pushing the concept of boundaries between girl and woman, redefining femininity with modern cool attitude.

Shushutongstudio.com

Started in 2015, SHUSHU/TONG is a Shanghai based upcoming brand, created by designers Liushu Lei and Yutong Jiang. The duo are both London College of Fashion graduates, which if that wasn’t prestigious enough, both have also spent time working at Simone Rocha and Gareth Pugh. It’s easy to pick out the influence that these designers would have had on the pair, as their main drive is to create unique collections that are still accessible, without having to sacrifice femininity in the process.

The emergence of the SHUSHU/TONG brand is quite timely, since post lockdown attitudes have embraced the eccentric hyper-feminine aesthetic that the duo are continuously serving. Although the pandemic will have inevitably had an impact on their ability to grow earlier in their careers, it’s definitely not stopped them at the last hurdle as there’s no signs of these two quitting anytime soon!

Everything that represents the brand at it’s core, from is pastel colour palette to its emphasis on trim and embellishments, reminds me of the girly girl brands that have stood the test of time. SHUSHU/TONG is like a heiress love child of Miu Miu and Simone Rocha.

It seems like they’re channeling their artistic influences into creating beautifully feminine pieces, catering more practical and wearable styles to everyday women rather than the typical high fashion clientele of the upper class. Take the blue dress on the right as an example; although the styling and the set design makes the whole vibe very extravagant, the dress cut and shape is still wearable and not super tight or restraining. It looks like it would be quite comfy to wear without losing its elegant feel, making it a great piece for long day events.

As the house is still making a name for itself, their price point is a lot more affordable than it’s more established influences. As Miu Miu is a sister brand to Prada and is the leading horse in this race, the price of a dress could start at £800 (although most rest at around £2000). Yet a super classy tweed cocktail dress from our beloved SHUSHU/TONG can be found on Farfetch for £420.

The affordability of the brand is definitely something that will be greatly admired from a younger demographic, especially those who have no idea if they’d ever be able to afford ready-to-wear from Miu Miu or Prada. As 21st century post-lockdown women are gripping both hands on the ability to dress as eccentrically as they want, more conscious than ever of the affects of overconsumption and instead choosing to invest in timeless pieces, SHUSHU/TONG is the perfect antidote to all that lusting for dreamy pieces.

Overall, i’m really looking forward to seeing what the future holds for Liushu and Yutong. These two have so much potential and hopefully they will find many opportunities to further grow and continue creating beautiful collections.

Spring/Summer trend forecast 2022

As January is being a typical never ending January, I thought it would be fun to discuss what exciting fashion themes will be popping up within the next few months (besides the inevitable pastel colours and layering that is).

The general consensus is that this year there’s a heavy concentration on interesting trims and professional feminine silhouettes. This could be influenced by society getting back into the open, whether it be working in the office again or going to big fancy events. The main idea is that we’re going big because we’re NOT going home.

1. Jackie O suits

Starting off strong, we’ve got the classic two piece suit sets. Don’t get me wrong, co-ords are always a main feature in spring. However, we’re taking the matchy matchy vibe one step further with a huge emphasis on bold, bright colours. It’s not about “i’m going to work so i need to look put together”, its “i’m going to the office after spending a year hardly leaving my home, its time to make the most of the little things like making an effort to look professional”.

Or, if you happen to not work somewhere with a more laid back dress code, the two piece suit could be a fun choice when going out for cocktails or a fancy meal. The best thing about a skirt and suit jacket combo is that you can style the underneath layer however you want, whether it be something casual like a t-shirt or bodysuit, or a little more dressy like a shirt or turtleneck. It’s a super wearable and timeless set so it’s a great addition to your wardrobe if you’re looking towards a long term investment.

2. ballet flats

I feel like a lot of people have a love/hate relationship with ballet flats, you see a cute everyday shoe but you feel the pain of sore blisters after a few hours wear. Well if you can find yourself some plasters or thick tights (or both, better to be safe than sorry) then ballet flats are a must for spring!

Although some designers have had their own spin on a ballet flat, even to the extremes like the Maison Margiela Tabi, you can’t go wrong with just the traditional flat. They’re an easy option for everyday styling, I could imagine the Tik Tok ‘that girl’ trend being particularly fond of putting on some classics for slightly more formal errands. Wear with a pair of sheer tights, or if you’re feeling a bit more adventurous, maybe a floral lace pair? Ooh, black ballet flats with white lace tights, that’s an idea i’ll definitely be keeping in mind for Spring.

3. feather trims

Ah yes, going out attire just got that bit more extra. It’s been a while since feathers have returned to the runway in such mass exposure, but I’m quite happy about it. There’s nothing that screams fancy quite like feathers waving around your cuffs whilst you’re speaking. I’d like to thank the brand Sleeper for introducing feather trim pyjamas to a modern day audience, I’m particularly fond of their attitude towards styling pyjamas as outerwear too.

Although this might seem a little bit too much for your taste, if you’re feeling brave you could try the trim in a very casual way. Imagine a simple jeans an white loose button up shirt outfit, except the shirt has a subtle matching white trim of feathers along the cuffs for a little extra something. Many feather trim pieces these days are removable because they’re attached with poppers so its easier to wash, so if you’re a bit hesitant about how much you’d wear something feathery, this could be a great option for you!

4. Empire line dresses

This is a trend i’m quite excited to see in fashion at the minute, and its empire cut dresses. Similar to a babydoll style of a raised waistline, an empire line differs in that it’s still fitted at the bust rather than flowy like a babydoll dress. It’s a very 60’s cut, which doesn’t make its revival a surprise following the continuous influence this decade has had on fashion in recent years.

This style of dress is great for if you’re after something a bit more elegant than a babydoll dress, but you’re still wanting the comfort over your waist. Although traditionally this silhouette was mainly used in the 1800s with a full length skirt, the 60’s version with a mini skirt would still feel modern today.

5. bows

Now for my personal favourite revival, bows. Little bows, large bows, extra large bows, long bows, short bows, pairs of bows, the full range. whether featured on a spaghetti strap or the top of an opera glove, running up knee high socks or as a tie back detail, bows are really being used to their full advantage by a range of designers this year.

A great everyday way to wear one is a simple hair bow at the back of the head: a very popular styling trend on pinterest at the minute. For something a bit more 60’s (maybe to match your empire dress hmm?) you could try one at the top of your head in front of a high ponytail. If you’re looking to go a bit more out there, maybe you could get creative and find a nice ribbon to attach to a pin, then you have the option to attach it wherever you like!

My favourite second hand finds of 2020

So I’ve just remembered that I made one of these last year and I’d love for it to be a regular thing to look back on, so I thought I’d make another one for my 2020 finds! Although the charity shops and vintage shops have been shut for the most part, I’ve reignited my love for depop, so here we go!

1. Gucci loafers

Kicking off with possibly my best second find of the year, my beautiful Gucci loafers! These babies had been on my long term wishlist for a few years, thinking it would be years before I was able to afford them. Flash forward to scrolling on depop one day and I managed to find them for a super discounted price!

They were basically brand new and came with all the original packaging, including two mini dust bags to keep them safe. I’ve gotten so much wear out of them in the past year due to them being super convenient to shot on and head out the door. They go with so much and they look particularly good with denim given the pink on blue combo, so overall a 10/10 investment!

2. Lilac suit set

This little lilac suit set was one of those jackpot finds on depop that you only come across every once in a while. I was actually looking for a different pastel suit from topshop at the time, but I managed to find this one (originally from Miss Selfridge) for £15!

The main thing I was pleased with was the fit. Usually I go for more oversized blazers and longer shorts but this combo being on the more fitted side is quite flattering. The quality also feels very good too, the fabric is a sturdy linen type of texture which makes the blazer hold its shape very well. My favourite way of styling it is with my beautiful pale yellow Marc Jacobs bag for a complimentary look!

3. Nakey nakey nakey t-shirt

Now this one might come as a surprise as being classed as one of my favourite second hand finds of the year, but it’s actually one that I’d contemplated for the longest time! This t-shirt was originally quite popular a few years back when Rihanna released the song Wild Thoughts and everyone went crazy for it, but I found it on depop for a mere £5.

I’d been after this t-shirt for a while as I liked the quite numerous embroidery, especially when layered under a blazer and the singular ‘nakey’ can be seen. However, I was quite surprised to find that the quality of both the embroidery and the t-shirt itself we’re both very good! I don’t often favour fitted t-shirts, but I love having this one as a good alternative.

4. Green blazer

This one is also one I’d been seeking out for quite some time, it’s this apple green blazer originally from Topshop. I remember contemplating buying it when it first came out but the price point was just that bit too much for my budget. When it went on sale it had sold out in my size, but then eventually I managed to find it on depop for £15.

This one comes with a matching pair of trousers, but I personally love it with jeans or pink trousers for a nice contrast. I’m slowly growing my blazer collection as that’s what I get the most wear out of, and so I was quite happy with this addition to my wardrobe. It’s light colour and linen like texture make it great for the spring/summer time, especially over a t-shirt and denim shorts!

5. Brown slip dress

Last but certainly not least we have this beloved Primark slip dress that I found (you guessed it, on depop) for just £5! I love a good slip dress for layering and this one has a beautiful sheen to it that’s great on sunny days.

I got most of my wear out this piece over the late autumn/early winter time, as the colour is really great with more darker shades. My favourite style to wear it with is usually a graphic t-shirt of some sorts, as the cut of the neckline usually sits quite well on it.

So that’s it for my 2020 second hand favourites, I love doing this as an annual thing so I’ll definitely be making another one for this year! If you’ve found any interesting second hand finds lately then I’d love to see them.

Speak to you soon,

Sophie

Spring at Zara

For the first ‘new in’ post on my blog for a while, it only makes sense to combine two of my favourite things: Spring and Zara. I feel a bit late to the Zara train, since I only properly started shopping there when I moved to Leeds a year and a half ago (I guess Middlesbrough isn’t cool enough). Although they can be a bit pricey for the high street, I think their designs are the best you’re going to get in terms of looking fancy on a budget.

During the autumn/winter months, Zara was all over social media for their lockdown appropriate loungewear, specifically their knitted shorts combos and that sleeve only high neck jumper. They’ve adapted some of these themes whilst giving them a pop of colour revamp, since you simply cannot go into spring without some pastel in your life, it’s criminal.

It’s quite funny when you think about how the change in seasons no longer affects what we choose to wear for the most part, since we haven’t been going outside for the past 6 months. Yet, I’m still looking forward to having the semi annual wardrobe switch over, which is now a little bit more complicated since my clothes are travelling between cities now rather than cupboards.

I hope you’re just as excited for spring as I am, the dark days alongside lockdown aren’t exactly ideal. If you do purchase any of these items then do show me when you get them! I’d love to see what everyone likes.

Speak soon,

Sophie

Gender stereotyped clothing

Apologises for being late to the conversation, but 2 months ago the hot topic of discussion was Harry Styles and the flamboyant aesthetics of his editorial for American Vogue. The content was modern, given that he was the first male to appear on the front cover, but the concept wasn’t new at all. Not for Harry, not for society, not for history.

Let me give an example here: it’s quite funny how a mans suit is considered to be a ‘traditional’ outfit when in fact men have been wearing dresses for a lot longer than they’ve been wearing suits. Harry’s gucci dress involved some of the oldest textile manipulation techniques in human history, that were often symbols of status and wealth because of how steady and detailed the process could be. The artistry involved is something that has gradually disappeared within western menswear overtime, but many parts of the world still withhold these types of garments because they understand the true value of them (which maybe the industrialisation of the west has blurred for us, but that’s a topic for another day).

I think the most ironic thing about it was the fact that the people criticising the issue were people that 1) don’t read vogue, 2) don’t care for fashion and will probably still view it as frivolous and just clothes, 3) don’t care about Harry, and 4) are in no way affected by it.

Fashion has so much history and culture behind it, it’s one of the only industries that is consumed by the majority of the population and yet people either care a lot about it or don’t care about it at all. It’s a blunt ‘clothes’ or ‘fashion’ argument and everyone has somewhat of an opinion on it, which is a good thing. Everyone has their own personal tastes and it’s okay to say if you do or don’t like something.

What’s not okay is shaming people or saying they can’t wear something, just because you don’t like it. If you don’t like it then don’t read it, or better yet, don’t let it get to you so much. The fact that we’re in the middle of a pandemic and people are getting annoyed by someone’s dress sense like there’s not bigger things going on in the world, you couldn’t write it.

Anyway, rant over. I hope you enjoyed this blog post and I’ll be back soon with more topics to discuss!

Lots of love,

Sophie

It’s been a while

Hello old friend, long time no see (besides on Instagram). I took a bit of an unintentional break from this blog for quite some time, not for any particular reason besides getting distracted by other things, It only just came to my attention that this little ‘time out’ period has been going on since May (which feels like a lifetime ago) so apologies to anyone that was anticipating a speedy return!

I know it’s a cliche thing to say “omg so much has happened since we last spoke!” But I think two more lockdowns on top of the first one is an acceptable occasion to use it. Besides the still very real pandemic and the general void of nothingness, there hasn’t been a lot going on within the fashion industry for me to write whole pieces on, which is why I’ve favoured more tightly packed Instagram stories for the odd topics here and there.

I started my own fashion brand back in September, and I had my first mini collection launch in November. It’s been really fun to put my time towards, but it’s also had its own struggles along the way. If I were to sum it up, try to order fabric samples with postage delays, then use the fabric and attempt to buy more but thanks to COVID there’s not enough stock, then eventually find an alternative fabric but you’ve ran out of zippers, and the circle of life continues.

That’s enough of being a negative Nancy, in all seriousness I love having the brand to work on. I started a YouTube channel back at the start of the first lockdown which gave me the confidence and support I didn’t even realise I needed to fully go for starting my dream job. At the minute it’s just a part time thing since I’m still at uni (let’s not talk about that) but I’m hoping to progress it further in the summer. I’ve got a lot of big ideas that I’m trying not to get too carried away with since a lot of it is out of my budget, but I’ll still be bringing out some cool new stuff in future!

Also, in the time since I last posted on here until now, I’ve went from a “nah I hate tik tok it’s so cringy” person to a “Yes I’ve made three tik toks today and I’ve done no work” person. I actually quite like how laid back it is, it’ll take 2 minutes to make one not so perfect outfit video versus 200 photos for that one good one for Instagram, yet the tik tok algorithm LOVES the imperfect stuff? Instagram needs to lower their standards or soon they’ll have nobody.

Anyway, this was just a brief update to say I haven’t disappeared from Earth and I’m hoping to get back into blogging in the foreseeable future, so stay in touch!

Lots of love,

Sophie x

“Camp” Met Exhibition Review

It wasn’t long after the Coronavirus outbreak had affected the wider population that the Metropolitan Museum of Art took action to postpone this year’s gala. As the heartbreak for the biggest event in fashion is present, I thought that I would at least share some form conversation relating to the night in which we all love to spectate. So since I already did a review of the best looks from last year, I thought why not take a deeper look into the actual exhibition behind the big night that some of you may not have seen much about when it was around. So without anymore rambling, here are a few of my “Camp: Notes on Fashion” exhibition highlights.

The Gucci Sponsorship

Now to start of this discussion I thought it would be right to focus on the main contributors towards the show coming to life (Anna Wintour can only do so much, surprisingly) and the main sponsor for last year’s theme was in fact Gucci. As the exhibition will be made up of hundreds of delicate and often one of a kind pieces that are so rare to find, they need not just a big budget but also a big helping hand in providing a lot of relevant material, literally. Gucci has always been known for having a frivolous, hyper exaggerated flare to its designs that the fashion house suited this partnership just right.

In the past decade they have made a flying comeback into high fashion, whilst other brands of a similar position have focused on creating simple and sellable runway designs, Gucci have dared to be different and introduced a wide variety of silhouettes, patterns and textures to a new audience. They’ve made fashion desirable again, recognising the upcoming generations obsession with past decades and the unique pieces that only get diluted by other houses today, only to be diluted to just tinted water by the time these trends reach the high street.

Justice for Edda Gimnes

Now I’ve already covered some of this drama in a previous blog post when the whole thing unveiled, but since the Met Gala gave upcoming independent designer Edda Gimnes the justice she deserved, why not recap on what really happened to get her global recognition.

Edda Gimnes is a young and upcoming designer, who had graduated from the London College of Fashion in 2015. She had an interview post-graduation with Moschino, a brand that could be seen to suit her over the top flare. Sadly, she did not get what she was looking for and she was turned away, however her work didn’t go unnoticed. It was the Spring 2019 RTW collection that featured bold illustrative lines, block sharpie style colours, paired with sketched tights, all resembling the work of Gimnes. What was thought to be a great come back for Moschino after a few seasons of dull and lifeless themes, was actually completely forged.

Now how does this relate to the theme of Camp you ask? Well, a common theme that is recognised as Camp is ‘pastiche’, a word defining imitation of style or work. Another commonly associated word for Camp is irony, and the act of a well established fashion house needing to draw its ideas from a ‘nobody’ is quite ironic. So the word spread from Edda herself of this injustice, and soon the world started to recognise Jeremy Scott’s loss of touch when it came to being a true designer. Edda’s work was featured in this exhibit following her exposure and recognition, on a mannequin placed high and central to the main room of the show.

Molly Goddard’s recognition

Yes I’m talking about Molly Goddard yet again, but this time it’s necessary. I’d first like to address her absolute relevance to the exhibition. To start with in a very literal sense, her heavily gathered tulle dresses and unique silhouettes are of course as camp as you can get. Wearing 30 metres of fabric to pop to the shops in is going to make you feel like you’re wrapped in bubble wrap, whilst looking like a bright pink loofah (in a good way). Not only that, but her brand as a whole breaks away from the current monochromatic unsurprising styles of today that are the result of continuous dilution of trends over the years. She’s not trying to be anyone else, and she’s not trying to reinvent a style either, she’s looked at the fashion book and torn it apart and then rewrote it from her own perspective.

The picture that blew up on Instagram, this dress was one featured in the exhibition.

I also want to talk about it wasn’t just crucial for the Metropolitan museum to include Goddard in the Camp exhibition, but it was crucial for Goddard to receive that pedestal of recognition. There’s often a strange bridge between being an upcoming designer and being a well established fashion house, and sometimes designers can find themselves struggling to break out of that ‘small business’ title. It’s quite surprising to me how ironic it is that her pieces are just so recognisable amongst pop culture now, yet she’s still so unheard of. To be the poster outfit for Killing Eve, one of the highest achieving tv shows at the minute. To dress Rihanna of all people countless times and have some of the images be the singers most adored. Within just 5 years of her brand existing she’s been recognised by so many avenues besides the fashion industry, and I feel like the Met Gala confirmed that well deserved status that she’d already been achieving unrecognised for so long. My hero.

The iconic Björk swan dress

When the theme ‘Camp’ was announced I made a mental list of pieces or designers that I wanted to be included, and this exact dress was one of them. The Björk swan dress, designed by Marjan Pejoski from Macedonia, is one of the most outrageous red carpet looks of all time. Whilst wearing the dress to the Academy awards in 2001, the singer was seen to be mimicking ‘laying an egg’ on the red carpet. When she was asked about this in the press after all the hysteria it caused, she gave the statement “it’s just a dress”.

It’s a fact that the dress itself is something of total costume, it’s a given. However the attitude to wear it to a red carpet at a time when fashion was all about making yourself appear sexy and it was all taken a bit too seriously for what it was, it’s quite possibly the most camp piece of fashion to exist. It’s hardly anything to do with the piece itself, because that dress has been ripped off and ‘reimagined’ way more times than it should have been. It’s the total disregard for dignity and image in a time where that is all that mattered. Celebrities of that time very rarely dipped into new or unrecognised styles as individuals, fashion as a whole was commercialised to do its job. Björk’s dress was not just a fun idea, it was in fact a total mockery to pop culture at its time.

In summary, I fucking loved this exhibition. I say this with a biased opinion as the identification of the theme had made me realise how many parallels I have with it in my own style, so this theme will always have a special place in my heart. Yet, I thought that some of these highlights from the exhibition were some of the greatest overall in terms of reflecting on fashion in today’s society, so I hope that you enjoyed this or found out something new.

If you didn’t get a chance to see the exhibition whilst it was on, and you’d like to see a bit more from it, here’s a link to the page which features a virtual tour of the exhibiton. You can also find my review of last year’s gala looks here.

I’ll be back soon with more fashion chit chat.

Love,

Sophie

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